FKIN - Fort Kochi, India
Traveling for me is a fancy. It beats me when I try to think of the reasons behind a few of my capricious trips, like travelling solo to Maharashtra chasing a sunset at a particular beach. Like this, there have been a lot of little things that make me want to travel, just for that small experience and to discover what’s around it.
It was something similar that drew me to Fort Kochi. A picture of a teapot, taken by one of my friends at a café, also called The Teapot. And so one day, the teapots beckoned. I packed my bags and a friend and set off. Felt sorry for him though, he had to put up with my click happy mind and rubbernecked mindlessness.
The teapot is a small café with a charming atmosphere and a warm attic/upper deck seating overlooking part of the café below. Decorated with teapots in cabinets, teapots on the wall shelves, teapot lampshades and even a few, teapots, strung on a wire and hung across the door.
All this over white and yellow pastel colored interiors make it look like a house from a Mediterranean port town. Like as if the earth beneath it it broke off coastal europe and drifted across the seas until it was washed ashore here in Kerala.
The food is mainly continental with some Malabar touches to the menu. But it is the warm ambiance of the café that really makes you let out a satisfactory hmmm as you settle down. One that makes you want to put your feet up, retrieve the old hard-bound from the rucksack, let out a sigh of relief, sip tea and discover the book while you nibble toast and marmalade.
The food is mainly continental with some Malabar touches to the menu. But it is the warm ambiance of the café that really makes you let out a satisfactory hmmm as you settle down. One that makes you want to put your feet up, retrieve the old hard-bound from the rucksack, let out a sigh of relief, sip tea and discover the book while you nibble toast and marmalade.
The tiny idyllic island of Fort Kochi itself is like a salad bowl of jalapenos, little prawns and pineapple tossed in olive oil over a low flame, garnished with coconut and served on a plantain leaf. For dessert, it is an assortment of fresh muffins and blueberry cheese cake.
The journey: getting there and away from Bangalore is straightforward. Take an overnight train to Ernakulam, bus to the fort jetty, ferry across the harbor and vice versa.
Fort Kochi is a boat ride across the harbor from Cochin, past big ships, the docks and its many cranes rising up to a new day, a few fishing vessels bound out to sea or chugging into the fisherman's' wharf.
There is also an international airport and decent roads connecting FK and the rest of India.
Fort Kochi is a boat ride across the harbor from Cochin, past big ships, the docks and its many cranes rising up to a new day, a few fishing vessels bound out to sea or chugging into the fisherman's' wharf.
There is also an international airport and decent roads connecting FK and the rest of India.
As you walk out of the jetty, there is a striking change in atmosphere compared to mainland Kerala. The lazy sun warms up the streets and its many little buildings from another time are dipped in Portuguese sauce.
What you also notice is a large number of foreign travelers who seem so much at home here, that sometimes you start to think you are the foreigner. They chat away over tea, stroll on the streets, feel the wind by the sea and shop in a way that makes it look like their neighborhood Sunday market.
Fort Kochi for me is five distinct parts.
The river road on the east with numerous spice trading houses and connecting the 3 jetties. It meanders through the old town between household spice trading shops, colorful windows, pretty houses, smell of cinnamon and cardamom and inquisitive locals.
The beach promenade on the west, from the Chinese Fishing Nets to the fort.
Foot path along the seaside to take a long walk, park benches to sit and enjoy the view of the sea and the sunset. Many restaurants serving fish & the Dutch Cemetry.
Then the many boutique hotels, cafés and galleries around St. Francis Church, most of them on Peter Celli Street and Princess Street, theatres with dance performances.
The river road on the east with numerous spice trading houses and connecting the 3 jetties. It meanders through the old town between household spice trading shops, colorful windows, pretty houses, smell of cinnamon and cardamom and inquisitive locals.
The beach promenade on the west, from the Chinese Fishing Nets to the fort.
Foot path along the seaside to take a long walk, park benches to sit and enjoy the view of the sea and the sunset. Many restaurants serving fish & the Dutch Cemetry.
Then the many boutique hotels, cafés and galleries around St. Francis Church, most of them on Peter Celli Street and Princess Street, theatres with dance performances.
Food is another biggie in Fort Kochi. Cafés serving feel good continental food, open air dining and abundant candle lit tables at dusk and into the night. Teapot, Café Vasco & Loafer’s corner are some good places to eat, read or just chat away, leisurely.
Finally the Jew Town is a country of its own, nice place to visit, with its one of a kind synagogue, nice locals and a small colorful market place.
Then the rest of the gods own country and its signature smell of Kerala air that binds all these places together.
Finally the Jew Town is a country of its own, nice place to visit, with its one of a kind synagogue, nice locals and a small colorful market place.
Then the rest of the gods own country and its signature smell of Kerala air that binds all these places together.
Discovering Fort Kochi is best done slowly - and because all the interesting places are huddled together like a tiny board game or a map from a kindergartner. Getting around is smooth as well, just rent a bike, get to a place you want to visit, park it and stroll lazily.
Fort Kochi is a world of it's own. A nice relaxing little addition to your vacation in India, or for a simple carefree weekend break.
Fort Kochi is a world of it's own. A nice relaxing little addition to your vacation in India, or for a simple carefree weekend break.
